When Asterix and Obelix first journeyed to Rome to rescue their kidnapped bard Cacofonix in Asterix the Gladiator, they found themselves at the very heart of the ancient world — a city bursting with noise, monuments, and the mighty arrogance of empire. But what if you, too, were a visitor from Gaul in 50 BCE, eager to see the famous city for yourself? Here’s a factual and historically accurate travel guide to what the two Gauls might have experienced — and what any traveler from Armorica could expect when visiting the capital of the Roman Republic.
Arriving in the Eternal City
The journey from Gaul to Rome was no small feat. Most travelers would follow the road from Massilia (Marseille) down the Italian coast, taking a merchant galley to Ostia, the port of Rome. From there, it was a day’s travel inland along the Via Ostiensis, either on foot, by mule cart, or hired litter. Rome’s population had already surpassed half a million, making it the largest city in the Mediterranean — a true marvel for any Gaul used to quiet forests and village life. Asterix and Obelix, of course, marched straight to the center without a map — and somehow never got lost.
Where to Stay
In 50 BCE, Rome had no hotels in the modern sense. The best options were cauponae (inns) or tabernae diversoriae(guest houses). Foreign visitors often stayed near the Forum Boarium, close to the river and the markets, where rooms were cheap and lively. A bed in a shared room would cost about two or three asses per night — affordable, if you didn’t mind the company of sailors and merchants. Those of higher rank might rent quarters in a private house (domus), though most landlords preferred to let to senators and officers.
Getting Around the City
The streets of Rome were narrow, crowded, and often noisy. Carts and wagons were banned during daylight, so the safest way to explore was on foot. A local guide or messenger, known as a cursor, could be hired for a few denarii to show visitors around. Asterix and Obelix managed without one, though Obelix might have appreciated some advice before taking on the Roman guards single-handedly in the Circus Maximus.
The Highlights of Rome
Start with the Forum Romanum, the political and religious center of Rome. Here stood the Curia Hostilia (the old Senate House), the Temple of Saturn, and the Rostra, where great orators like Cicero addressed the crowd. This was where laws were debated, contracts signed, and rumors spread faster than Caesar’s legions could march.
From the Forum, climb the Capitoline Hill to see the Temple of Jupiter Optimus Maximus, the city’s most important shrine. This was the destination of every triumphal procession — an event Asterix and Obelix would later crash spectacularly in their mission to free the bard.
No visit was complete without a day at the Circus Maximus, Rome’s vast chariot-racing stadium, already capable of holding some 150,000 spectators. The roar of the crowd as the teams — Reds, Blues, Greens, and Whites — thundered around the track was unforgettable.
If drama was more your taste, the newly built Theatre of Pompey was the marvel of the age, finished in 55 BCE. It was Rome’s first permanent stone theatre and could seat up to 20,000 people for plays and spectacles. Caesar himself had attended its opening — and so might our Gaulish tourists.
For open air and exercise, visit the Campus Martius, the Field of Mars, where young Romans trained, jogged, and boasted. Temples to Mars, Apollo, and Bellona lined its edge, while street vendors sold garlands and wine.
Eating and Drinking
Dining in Rome was an adventure in itself. For a simple meal, stop by a thermopolium, a street-side snack bar serving hot stews, bread, and wine. A basic lunch cost about one as. For more luxurious fare, try a popina, where wealthy Romans dined on fish, olives, and roasted dormice. Asterix and Obelix would likely have ignored all of this in favor of finding a decent roast boar — though those were rare in Rome’s crowded streets.
Shopping and Souvenirs
The Forum Boarium and Forum Holitorium were the city’s main markets, selling everything from spices and olive oil to bronze trinkets and small figurines of the gods. Foreign visitors often bought oil lamps, glass beads, or miniature busts of Jupiter as souvenirs. Bargaining was expected, and a sharp Gaul could usually strike a fair deal. Keep an eye on your purse: Roman pickpockets were as skilled as any legionary.
Costs and Duration
A modest visit of four or five days would be enough to see the essential sights, though a full week would allow time for a bathhouse visit or an afternoon at the theatre. Budget at least ten denarii for lodging, meals, and entrance tips. A generous Gaul might spend double that on souvenirs and a new toga.
Leaving Rome
Before departing, many travelers visited the Temple of Vesta to make an offering for safe passage. From there, it was back to Ostia and aboard a ship bound for Massilia, with perhaps a small crate of Roman wine to show the neighbors back home.
Rome in 50 BCE was a city unlike any other — loud, proud, and magnificent. For visitors from Gaul, it offered a glimpse of power and spectacle on an unimaginable scale. As Asterix and Obelix discovered in Asterix the Gladiator, even the greatest empire in the world was no match for a determined pair of Gauls — but as tourists, it’s best to leave the fighting in the arena and enjoy the sights instead.
